Bellano & north

The quieter upper lake

North of Varenna, Lake Como widens and the mountains rise higher on either side. This upper part of the lake is calmer and more down to earth than the famous central villages, with small towns, family-run restaurants and easy access to the Alps. It suits people who want lake views and outdoor activity rather than grand gardens and busy waterfronts.

Bellano, on the eastern shore, is an old working town with a lakeside promenade and the Orrido, a deep gorge carved by the Pioverna stream, which you can visit on walkways fixed to the rock. Dervio and Dorio are small villages with pebbly beaches, and Colico, at the top of the lake, is a lively base close to the Valtellina valley.

Things to do on the upper lake

The northern lake is known for its steady afternoon winds, which make Colico, Domaso and Gravedona popular for windsurfing, kitesurfing and sailing. The abbey of Piona sits on a peaceful peninsula near Colico, and Forte Montecchio Nord is a well-preserved First World War fort. Just beyond the lake, the Pian di Spagna nature reserve is good for birdwatching.

Walkers can follow the Sentiero del Viandante, an old mule path along the eastern shore, or climb into the mountains above Bellano and Dervio. Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio in the central lake are a short trip by car or ferry.

Food, travel and when to visit

Food here mixes lake and mountain: lake fish such as lavarello, missoltini, polenta, bresaola and pizzoccheri, the buckwheat pasta of the Valtellina, where the steep vineyards produce excellent red wines.

A railway runs along the eastern shore from Lecco through Bellano and Colico, with connections to Milan. Bergamo and the Milan airports are the usual gateways. Late spring to early autumn is the main season, with summer best for watersports and swimming. The area suits active families, couples and anyone who prefers a quieter side of the lake.

Read more about Lake Como, or browse the villas listed below to find your base on the upper lake.