Lake Trasimeno, Perugia & central

The green heart of Italy

Central Umbria combines a large, calm lake with some of Italy's finest hill towns. Lake Trasimeno, close to the Tuscan border, is the largest lake in peninsular Italy, ringed by olive groves, sunflower fields and low hills. A short drive east, the regional capital Perugia stands on its hilltop, with Assisi and the Spoleto valley beyond.

It is a quieter, less crowded alternative to Tuscany, with the same mix of countryside, history and good food, and it is well placed for day trips in both regions.

Around the lake and the hill towns

Castiglione del Lago sits on a promontory with a castle and walls, and Passignano sul Trasimeno has a lively lakefront. Boats run out to Isola Maggiore, a car-free island with a small fishing village, and to Isola Polvese, a nature park. The lake is shallow and warms up nicely for swimming in summer. On the northern shore, Tuoro was the site of Hannibal's victory over the Romans in 217 BC.

Perugia has a handsome medieval centre around the Fontana Maggiore, an art gallery devoted to Umbrian painters and a well-known summer jazz festival, and it is the home of the famous Baci chocolates. Assisi, with the Basilica of St Francis, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Deruta is known for hand-painted ceramics, and Spello, Bevagna and Montefalco are lovely smaller towns to explore. Cortona, just over the border in Tuscany, is close to the lake.

Food, wine and travel

Umbrian food is earthy: black truffles, porchetta, lentils, torta al testo flatbread and excellent olive oil. The lake adds its own fish dishes and the small fagiolina bean. Montefalco Sagrantino and the reds of Torgiano are the wines to try.

Perugia has a small airport, but most visitors fly to Florence or Rome, both within reach by car. Spring and early autumn are ideal, and summer is warm with the lake to cool off in. The area suits families, couples and anyone wanting a relaxed countryside holiday with culture close by.

Read more about Umbria, or browse the villas listed below to find your base around Lake Trasimeno and Perugia.